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UNITARIAN
CHURCH
Honey
Hole Road, Todmorden
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Photo
by kind permission of Frank Woolrych |
This
church is a Grade 1 Listed Building overlooking the town.
It is perched high on a hill in an imposing position and can
be seen for miles around, helped by the spire, which increases
its height by a further 192 feet. Reached by a long winding
drive starting at a gatehouse, it looks more like an Anglican
Cathedral than a non-conformist chapel. Even the gatehouse
is a listed building. The church stands in its own substantial
landscaped grounds and has a large burial ground on the wooded
slopes behind the building. |
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However,
the church is new in comparison to most, and wasn't the
first place of worship for the Todmorden Unitarians. Joseph
Cooke was a former Wesleyan Minister who had been expelled
for heresy. His followers called themselves the Methodist
Unitarians and they set up a number of Societies in the
Rochdale area, including Todmorden.
John
Fielden (1784-1849), the local mill owner, social reformer
and later radical MP for Oldham, was of Quaker stock. He
dabbled in Wesleyanism and in 1818 was persuaded to follow
the break away Unitarians, enticed no doubt by their political
aims of social reform in factories, prisons and women's
rights. |
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They
first met at a
room in Hanging Ditch, Todmorden, and in 1823 built their
own chapel and school. John was closely involved in this and
became a teacher at the school. By 1828 the congregation had
grown but the Society was in considerable debt so John bought
the chapel and cleared the debt from his own pocket. John
is buried in a plain and simple grave in the burial ground
adjacent to the chapel. |
The old chapel later remodelled as a
Sunday School |
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His
grave is a rectangular stone kerb surrounding a gravel base.
There is no headstone and the only inscription on the kerb
reads:
Born
17th Jany 1784 - John Fielden - died 29th May 1849
Is
it a sign of the times that the man who gave so much to Todmorden
rests in a forgotten grave, which is now neglected and overgrown? |
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In
the years after John Fielden's death, the Unitarian community
in Todmorden grew rapidly and the facilities at the chapel
became inadequate. In 1864 his three sons, Joshua, John and
Samuel, agreed to help the community, but far from enlarging
the existing premises they commissioned a brand new church
to be built on their land at Honey Hole in Todmorden. Money
was no object to these brothers, and they decreed that only
the best quality stone, marble and oak were to be used. The
cost ended up in excess of £35,000, which was a colossal
sum in those days. No expense was spared and the building
was one of considerable size and splendour. |
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Beneath
the tower is a splendid porch, the entrance to which can be
seen in the photograph, and from here is a staircase leading
to the bell ringing chamber. There is a full octave of bells
in the tower, which can be rung by pull ropes or by a complex
system of wires and hammers in a carillon drum. The drum also
plays 4 popular Victorian tunes including "Home Sweet
Home." |
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Set
in to the porch floor is a commemorative plaque to the three
Fielden brothers
Erected
by Samuel, John and Joshua Fielden
AD
MDCCCLXVIII |
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Just
beyond the porch are the graves of two of the brothers, Joshua
and Samuel. They lie side by side in isolated splendour. Samuel's
grave is the one on the right, with the following inscription: |
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In
Memory of Samuel Fielden
Born at Dawson Weir, Todmorden 21
January 1816
Died
at Centre Vale Todmorden 9 November 1889.
In
Memory of Sarah Jane Fielden
wife of the late Samuel Fielden.
Born at West Dingle, Liverpool
5
November 1819
Died
at Centre Vale Todmorden 4 July 1910.
Joshua's'
grave is on the left with a simple inscription:
Joshua
Fielden born March 8th 1827,
died
March 8th 1887 aged 60 years |
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Photo
by very kind permission of Frank Woolrych |
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The
photographs show the interior view of the chancel, a group
of bell ringers about 1910 and the decorative marble font. |
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Also
worth a mention is the organ, which was powered by an underground
water wheel until as late as 1939. |
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The
church opened its doors in April 1869 when 800 people gathered
to hear the first sermon by the invited guest William Gaskell,
widower of the novelist Elizabeth Gaskell. He was an important
Unitarian in the Manchester area. Local feeling had been mixed
when the church was being built. Non-conformist tradition
was to have everything plain and simple, and this gothic structure
seemed ostentatious and more in keeping with the Anglican
or Roman Church. William Gaskell devoted part of his address
to arguing that there is nothing wrong in using art in religion.
This must have pleased the Fielden brothers, who were aware
of the unease amongst the community. |
Rev.
William Gaskell |
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The
Rev. Taplin wrote a note in the front of his new Register
of Baptisms, saying:
The
new building was opened for religious worship on Wednesday
April 7th 1869, on the Sunday following, April 11th, a
service was held in the church at 3pm for the christening
of young children, who I baptised with water of the Jordan
(for which I was indebted to my venerable friend the Rev.
William James of Birstal who had lately returned from
the east) the following children. Lindsay Taplin
29
children in all were baptised on that day.
The
church soon became very loved and popular, and thrived as
a centre of the Unitarian faith until well in to the 20th
Century, which in the early days upset the local Anglican
community, mainly due to the minister Rev. Lindsay Taplin,
who was a very outspoken preacher in favour of the Unitarian
liberal and humanistic views. Rev. Taplin was the minister
from 1856 to 1881. In November 1887 the Rev. Taplin committed
suicide whilst pastor of Kingswood Unitarian Chapel.
The
first marriage was celebrated at the church on 6th. March
1873. It was between Mr. Joseph Sutcliffe, one of the bell
ringers, and Miss Ann Holt, both of Cobden. Mrs. John Fielden
of Dobroyd Castle presented the pair with a Family Bible,
a copy of Martineau's "Hymns for the Christian Church
and Home" and the Service Book used at the church. |
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The
church and Langfield Moor, kindly sent by
Audrey
Watts |
After
Rev. Taplin left Todmorden, the Fielden brothers set
up an endowment trust to give the church some sort
of independence from the family, who still owned the
land and buildings.
Despite
this, as time passed and congregations dwindled, there
became a shortage of funds. |
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In
the centenary year, 1969, there were great efforts made to
raise money to keep the church going, but it finally closed
in 1987. Services continued until 1992 in the gatehouse and
were then disbanded.
Not
all of the Unitarian community were rich and prominent figures.
James Graham was an ordinary working class blacksmith who
also became a member of the Unitarian Society and worshipped
at the original chapel. He was born in 1837, the eldest son
of Thomas Graham and Mary. Thomas had arrived in Todmorden
as a young man from Whalley and had set himself up as a blacksmith
at Bridge End, Shade. His business thrived and he took on
2 local apprentices. He also taught his son the trade, and
by the time he was 14 James was already a fully fledged blacksmith.
The family was then living at 10, Little Holme Street. When
Thomas died, James took over the business, married Susan,
and moved to Dobroyd. James and Susan brought up their two
children to be members of the Unitarian Society and would
have sent them to the Sunday school at the chapel. Their son,
Thomas, was a clever lad and his parents must have been very
proud of him. However, James didn't live long enough to see
his son's achievements in later life. He died in 1875 at the
age of 37 and is buried in the chapel grounds very close to
the last resting place of the founder, John Fielden. Thomas
was just 8 years old. |
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In
memory of James Graham of
Dobroyd Todmorden
Born
March 18th 1837 Died
February 12th 1875
My
sledge and hammer lay declined
My
bellows too have lost their wind,
My
fires extinguished, my force decayed,
My
vice now in the dust is laid;
My
iron and my coals are gone
My
nails are drove my work is done,
My
fire dried corpse lies here at rest,
My
soul is waiting to be blessed.
Also
of Susan his wife
who
died September 18th 1905 aged 78 years. |
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Young
Thomas was left, at the age of 8, with his widowed mother
and a younger sister. His mother had to work to keep her family
and she became a laundress. She made sure her son was fully
educated and would no doubt have noticed his intelligence
and thirst for learning. He continued to follow in the Unitarian
tradition of liberalism and social reform, and became a part
time "extension" student of Oxford University, a
little similar to our present day Open University students,
whereby he would attend lectures by travelling Oxford Lecturers
as part of the University's scheme to encourage adult education
amongst the working classes and especially amongst the non-conformists.
At the age of 24 he was awarded a £5 grant towards attending
a summer meeting of Oxford Extension students at Oxford. The
following year, 1891, he was awarded a £5 scholarship
by the Oxford Examiners along with 2 other Todmorden men,
the examiners reporting "the historical essays show
much thought as well as reading, and the best show a high
standard of excellence."
Thomas
remained at Dobroyd, delivering talks to the Liberal Club
and other organisations, one of which was entitled "Drink
and Poverty". He was a committee member of the Todmorden
Sunday School Union and an active participant in the Unitarian
Sunday school as well as a member of the Band of Hope. When
his mother died in 1905 and was buried next to her husband
in the chapel burial ground, the headstone was inscribed accordingly.
I wonder if it was Thomas who penned the lovely verse in remembrance
of his father, the blacksmith? In July 1907 Thomas left Todmorden
to take charge of the Lewins Mead Unitarian Domestic Mission
in Bristol.
The
old chapel was converted for use as a school when the new
church opened in 1869 and was enlarged and remodelled in 1899.
It was reported at the time:
During
the afternoon of this date, a memorial stone of the additions
to the Todmorden Unitarian Sunday School was laid by the Rev.
S. Alfred Steinthal of Manchester, in the presence of a large
crowd of friends. Mr. Jas. Crabtree, a warden, presided, and
Councillor W.S. Hollinrake of Waterside House presented the
trowel and mallet to Mr. Steinthal. The memorial stone consisted
of a slab fitted into a recess on the first floor level and
bearing the following inscription:
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To
the memory of Samuel, John and Joshua Fielden.
Constant benefactors of the Unitarian Church and School.
This
stone was laid by S. Alfred Steinthal
June
17th 1899. |
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Burial Grounds |
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There are two quite separate burial grounds. The oldest is at the original chapel and Sunday School. This was replaced by a much larger burial ground at the church. |
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The
Old Chapel Burial Ground
The
burial ground adjacent to the old chapel and Sunday School
is quite small but has several graves, including of course
those of John Fielden M.P. and James Graham, blacksmith. Most
of them are in reasonable condition and easy enough to read,
although the ground is neglected and beginning to become overgrown.
The inscriptions of the entire Old Chapel burial ground can be found on the following link, with grateful thanks to the Todmorden Antiquarian Society. Some of the graves have photos.
UNITARIAN SUNDAY SCHOOL MEMORIAL INSCRIPTIONS AND PHOTOS |
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The
main burial ground at the church
The
church itself has a large burial ground, which at one time
was extensively landscaped. It is located in a wooded
area on a steep slope with a separate entrance from Shoebroad
Lane. It is accessible from the church by means of a woodland
path, which winds upwards and away from the church. It is
difficult to imagine how a coffin could be carried along that
path from the church.
The
friends of the church have done a wonderful job in clearing
the jungle that had engulfed the graveyard. Below are before
and after photos, the latest one taken February 2007. |
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The inscriptions of the entire church burial ground can be found on the following link, with grateful thanks to the Todmorden Antiquarian Society. Some of the graves have photos.
UNITARIAN CHURCH MEMORIAL INSCRIPTIONS AND PHOTOS |
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Inside
the church is a memorial tablet:
Memorial
to the men of the Unitarian Church, Todmorden,
who
fell in the war 1914-1918 |
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©
Colin Hinson |
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In
Honour and in ever grateful remembrance of the members of
this church who gave their lives in defence of their native
land and for the cause of freedom, justice and peace in the
War of 1914-1918
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William
Bailey |
John
Mason |
Ernest
Barker |
James
Murie |
Ernest
Butterworth |
James
A. Pearson |
Herbert
Coupe |
James
Pickles |
Fielden
Crabtree |
Harold
Pilling |
Frank
Crossley |
Richard
Potter |
Harry
Crossley |
Herbert
Robinson |
Leonard
B. Dawson |
Ronald
Shackleton |
J.
W. B. Farrer |
Thomas
W. Shackleton |
Wilfred
Firth |
James
W. Smith |
Ernest
Greenwood |
John
Stephenson |
Fred
Greenwood |
George
Sunderland |
Irving
Greenwood |
Tom
Sunderland |
Thomas
H. Greenwood |
Robert
Suthers |
George
Hodgson |
Leonard
Toothill |
Harold
F. Hollinrake |
Arthur
Whipp |
Tom
Jackson |
Marshall
Whitham |
Clarence
Lee |
Wilbert
S. Whitham |
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Following
its closure as a place of worship in 1987, the church fell
into disrepair and suffered both vandalism and decay. Its
acquisition by the Historic Chapels Trust in 1994 and significant
financial investment in its repair and renovation,
in great part thanks to the Heritage Lottery Fund, has enable
the church to be restored to its former glory.
The Church
is now available for hire for a variety of events such as
weddings, receptions, concerts, exhibitions etc. The restored church has its own website at http://todunitarianchurch.caldercats.com/
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