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        It is very uncertain who were the first to visit America. Various authors of note have written on the subject, but their testimony is conflicting and uncertain; for instance, Calmet, a distinguished author, brings forward the writings of Hornius, son of Theodosius the Great, who affirms that "at or about the time of the commencement of the Christian era, voyages from Africa and Spain into the Atlantic ocean were both frequent and celebrated: "and holds that " there is strong probability that the Romans and Carthagenians, even 300 years B. C., were well acquainted with the existence of this country, "adding that there are "tokens of the presence of the Greeks, Romans, Persians, and Carthagenians, in many parts of the continent."  These reports, however, only resolve themselves into mere conjecture. The first authentic record we have of voyages of discovery to America are in the Icelandic accounts. From these we learn that in the year 1,000, A. D., Lief, son of Eric the Red, embarked from Greenland on a voyage of discovery, and explored the eastern coast of North America as far south as Narragansett bay, in Rhode Island. Other discoverers and navigators followed this expedition, attempts at colonization were made, and the country explored, in some localities, quite a distance back from the coast; but dissension’s among the colonists and wars with the natives at length put an end to these rude attempts at civilization. Except a few vague records and a "rune stone," found here and there throughout the territory, marking a point of discovery or perhaps the grave of some unhappy Norseman, the history of these explorations is wrapt in oblivion. Even the colonies in Greenland, established by Eric the Red in 986, A. D., and from which the explorers came, were at length abandoned and the site upon which they flourished became, for many years, forgotten. Finally, however, the fifteenth century was ushered in, marking an era of great changes in Europe. It put an end to the darkness of the middle ages; it witnessed the revival of learning and science and the birth of many useful arts, among which not the least was printing, while the invention of the mariner's compass in the preceding century having enabled sailors to go out of sight of land with impunity, a thirst for exploring unknown seas was awakened; long voyages were undertaken and important discoveries made.

        It was during this age of mental activity and growing knowledge that Christopher Columbus undertook the most memorable enterprise that human genius ever planned, and which renders his name undying. On the third of August, 1492, a little before sunrise, he set sail from Spain for the discovery of the western world. A little before midnight, on the thirteenth of October he descried a light on the Island of San Salvador. From this moment properly dates the complete history of America. From this time forward its progress bears date from a definite period, and is not shrouded in darkness nor the mists of tradition. 

        Two years after the discoveries of Columbus became known in England, Henry VII engaged John Cabot, a Venetian merchant, to sail in quest of discoveries in the West, and this navigator, in 1497, reached the coast of Labrador, which he named Prima-Vista, thus making, probably, the first visit of Europeans to the coast since the days of the Norsemen. This voyage was succeeded by others under Sebastian Cabot, son of John, in 1498, and by Gasper Cortreal, from Portugal, to whom the discovery of the St. Lawrence some authorities claim is due. This adventurer returned to Lisbon in the month of October of that year, laden with timber and slaves, seized from among the natives of the coasts he visited. On a second voyage he perished at sea. In 1504 the French first attempted a voyage to the New World; and in that year some Basque and Breton fishermen began to ply their calling on the banks of Newfoundland and along its adjacent coasts. From these the islands of Cape Breton derived its name. In 1525 Stefano Gomez sailed from Spain and is supposed to have entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence and to have traded upon its shores. A Castilian tradition relates that finding neither gold nor silver upon the coasts, nor anything which conveyed to these sordid adventurers an idea of mines of wealth of any kind, they frequently exclaimed "aca-nada," signifying "here is nothing,” and that the natives caught up the sound, which was repeated by them when other Europeans arrived, and thus gave origin to the designation of Canada.

       In 1534 Francis I, king of France, listening to the urgent advice of Philip Chabot, admiral of France, who portrayed to him in glowing colors the riches and growing power of Spain, derived from her trans-Atlantic colonies, despatched Jacques Cartier, an able navigator of St. Malo, who sailed April 20, 1534 with two ships of only sixty tons each, and a hundred and twenty men, reaching Newfoundland in May. After coasting along for some timer without knowing it was an island, he at length passed the straits of Bellisle and traversed the gulf of St. Lawrence. Having spent part of the summer on these coasts, he sailed on the 25th of July, highly pleased with the hospitable reception he had received from the natives, with whom he traded for furs and provisions. His report induced the French king to attempt a colony in the newly discovered regions; and in May, 1534, Cartier sailed with three small ships, with a numerous company of adventurers, and arrived on the coasts of Newfoundland much scattered and weakened by a disastrous storm of July 26th. Here they took in wood and water, and proceeded to explore the gulf, but were overtaken, August 1st, by a storm which obliged them to seek a port, difficulty of access, but with a safe anchorage, near the mouth of the "Great River." They left this harbor on the 7th, and on the 10th came to a "gulf filled with numerous islands." Cartier gave to this "gulf" the name of St. Lawrence, having discovered it on that Saint's festival day. Proceeding on this voyage he explored both shores of the St. Lawrence. Pleased with the friendly disposition of the natives and the comfortable prospects of a winter's sojourn, Cartier moored his vessels where a little river flowed into a "goodly and pleasant sound," which stream he name St. Croix, near the Indian village of Stacona, the site of the present city of Quebec. Subsequently, October 2d, he ascended the river to a populous Indian village called Hochelaga, upon the site of which the City of Montreal now stands. Here Donnacona, an Algonquin chief, conducted Cartier to the summit of a mountain about two miles from the village, and to which he gave the name of Mount Royal, or Montreal, and showed him, "in that bright October sun," the country for many miles south and east, and told him of great rivers and inland seas, and of smaller rivers and lakes penetrating a beautiful country belonging to the warlike Iroquois. This beautiful country, which the chief called Iroquoisia, included the present State of Vermont. Thus, to Jacques Cartier, a French navigator and explorer, is due the honor of having been the first European to gaze upon the Green Mountains of Vermont. 

        In May, Cartier returned to France, taking with him the Indian chief Donnacona, and two other prominent natives of the village, as prisoners; and they, who had treated the Frenchmen with such uniform kindness, died in a strange land, exiles from their homes and friends. 

        During each succeeding year for some time after, expeditions were sent out to the newly discovered river; but misfortune attended them all, and no efficient attempt at colonizing the country was made until 1608, when De Monts, a Calvinist, who had obtained from the king the freedom of religious faith for himself and followers in America, though under the engagement that the Catholic worship should be established among the natives, after several perilous voyages and much opposition, despatched Champlain and Pontgrave, two experienced adventurers, to establish the fur trade and begin a settlement. Samuel Champlain reached Quebec, where Cartier had spent the winter nearly three-quarters of a century before, on the 3d of July. On the 18th of the following April, 1609, in company with two other Frenchmen and a number of the natives, he started up the St, Lawrence, and, after a time, "turned southward up a tributary" and soon entered upon the lake which perpetuates his name. 

        Thus came the first European upon the territory now included within the limits of Vermont, unless, perhaps, we accept the testimony of a curious document found a few years since on the banks of the Missisquoi river, in Swanton, as follows: In December, 1853, as Messrs. Orlando Green and P. R. Kipley were engaged in excavating sand on the left Bank of the Missisquoi, near the village of Swanton, they discovered, imbedded in the earth, a lead tube about five inches long and an inch and a half in diameter. Enclosed within this tube was found an ancient manuscript, bearing the following:
 
 


"Nov. 29 A D 1564. 

"This is the solme day I must now die this is the 90th day since we lef the Ship all have perished and on the Banks of this River I die to farewelle may future Posteritye know our end. 

JOHNE GRAVE." 
 

        This document bore every appearance of being genuine and nothing has been developed since to point in an opposite direction. It certainly does not seem improbable that a party of sailors should wander away from their ship, or for some cause be left behind, and that they should then become lost and finally die in the forest; and it is also very natural that a sailor should leave some record to tell of his fate; but be this as it may, there is, of course, no positive evidence that the manuscript is genuine. 

        The early explorations and discoveries we have mentioned led to much litigation and controversy on the part of the several European countries under whose auspices they had been conducted. The English, on the grounds of the discoveries of the Cabots, claimed all the territory from Labrador to Florida, to which they gave the name Virginia; but their explorations were confined principally to the coast between Maine and Albermarle Sound. The French confined their explorations principally to the col1ntry bordering 9n the St. Lawrence and its tributaries, which they named New France, while the Dutch, by the discoveries of Henry Hudson, afterwards laid claim to the country between cape Cod and the Delaware river, which they called New Netherlands. 

        Attempts at colonization were made by England during the reign of Elizabeth, but they proved abortive, and it was not until the Tudor dynasty had passed away and several years of the reign of James I, the first of the Stuarts, had elapsed, before the Anglo-Saxon gained any permanent foothold. Stimulated by the spirit of rivalry with France, England pushed her explorations and discoveries, while France, from her first colony on the St. Lawrence; explored the vast region from the great lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, and established among the savages missions and trading posts, spreading from Canada through the West, and finally through New York and Vermont. 

        The rivalries and jealousies that had made France and England so long enemies in the Old World, were transplanted to the New Continent. The French made allies of the savages and waged war against the English, and years of bloodshed followed. The first of these hostilities, which are now known as the old French and Indian wars, began with William's accession to the throne of England, in 1690, and was terminated in the peace of Ryswic, in 1697. Queen Ann's war, so-called, came next, commencing in 1702 and terminating in the peace of Utrecht, in 1713. The third controversy was declared by George II, in 1744, and continued until the preliminaries of peace were signed at Aux-la-Chapelle, in 1748. The final great conflict was declared by Great Britain, in 1756, and terminated in the capture of Montreal, in September, 1760, when the whole of New France, or Canada, was surrendered to Great Britain. 

        During the progress of these wars the territory of Vermont was often crossed and re-crossed by portions of both armies, and a few military settlements sprang up. The first of these, however, was even before the wars, in 1665, on Isle La. Motte, where a fort was erected by Captain De La Motte, under command of M. De Tracy, governor of New France. In 1690, Capt. Jacobus De Narm, with a party from Albany, N. Y., established an outpost in the present town of Addison, at Chimney Point, where he erected a small stone fort. The first permanent settlement, however, and the first of any kind by Anglo-Saxons, was begun within the limits of Windham county, in the town of Brattleboro, in 1724 when Fort Drummer was built. For six or seven years the garrison of this fort were the only white inhabitants. In. 1730 the French built a fort at Chimney Point, and a considerable population settled in the vicinity. In 1739 a few persons settled in Westminster, and about the same time a small French settlement was begun at Alburgh, on what is now called Windmill Point, but was soon abandoned. The colony at Westminster increased but slowly, and in 1754 the whole population, alarmed by the Indian attack upon Charlestown, N. H., deserted their homes. Forts were erected and small settlements were commenced in several other places, but fear of the Indians prevented any large emigration till after the last French war, when, the Province of Canada being then ceded to Great Britain, the fear of hostile incursions subsided and the population rapidly increased. 

        During these wars, also, grants of land lying within the present limits of the state had been made by the Dutch at Albany, by the French, and by the colonies of Massachusetts, New Hampshire and New York, and each claimed jurisdiction over them. All of these claims, except that of New York, however, were relinquished without much controversy, of which more will be said on another page. But at the close of hostilities the lands were sought so eagerly by adventurers, speculators and settlers, that in a single year subsequent to 1760, Gov. Wentworth, of New Hampshire, granted in the name of King George III, not less than sixty townships of six miles square, and two years later the number of such grants amounted to 138. The territory now began to be known by the name of the New Hampshire Grants and the number of actual settlers soon became quite large. The affairs of these settlers were managed by committees in the. several towns, who met in general convention, when occasion required, to provide for their common defense and welfare. The decrees of these conventions were regarded as law, and violations of them were punished with extreme severity. While the Revolutionary war was in progress, the land title controversy was in a degree suspended; but soon after the war broke out it became apparent that the settlers of the grants needed some better organization than was possible by means of committees and conventions. Accordingly, in 1776, a convention was held at Dorset, and an address to Congress prepared, declaring the unwillingness of the settlers to be regarded as subjects or New York. This was not favorably received by Congress, whereupon the more resolute of the people determined to assume the powers of an independent state, "and risk the consequences." Another convention was held at Dorset, in June, and met again by adjournment in September, when such measures were taken that, at a convention held in Westminster, it was decided, on the 16th of January, 1777, that the following declaration should be adopted: 
 
 

  "This convention, whose members are duly chosen by the free voice of their constituents, in the several towns on the New Hampshire Grants, in public meeting assembled, in our names, and in behalf of our constituents, do hereby proclaim and publicly declare, that the district of territory comprehending and usually known by the name and description of the New Hampshire Grants, of right ought to be, and is hereby declared forever hereafter to be considered as a free and independent jurisdiction or State, by the name and forever hereafter to be called, known and distinguished by the name of New Connecticut, alias Vermont; and that the inhabitants that at present are or may hereafter become residents, by procreation or emigration, within said territory, shall be entitled to the same privileges, immunities and enfran-chisements as are allowed; and on such condition, and in the same manner, as the present inhabitants, in future, shall or may enjoy; which are, and forever shall be, such privileges and immunities to the free citizens and denizens, as are, or, at any time hereafter, may be allowed, to any such inhabitants, or any of the free and independent States of America: and that such privileges and immunities shall be regulated in a bill of rights and by a form of government, to be established at the next adjourned session of this convention." 

        On the 4th of June the committee met at Windsor, there being present seventy-two members, representing fifty towns. A committee was appointed to prepare a draft of a constitution for the new State, and recommended to the town to choose delegates on the 23d of June, to meet at Windsor, July 2d, to discuss and adopt said constitution. The newly elected convention met July 2d, and continued in session six days. It received from the committee appointed for that purpose a copy of a constitution very similar to that of Pennsylvania, which was read and discussed. Before it was wholly adopted, however, alarming news of the British army in the western part of the State was received. It was proposed at first to adjourn and leave the work in hand unfinished; but this was providentially prevented by the sudden occurrence of a thunder storm. Some who were less agitated by the news from the west side of the state, suggested the great importance of finishing the work in hand. This advice was followed, the constitution adopted, an election ordered, and a Council of Safety appointed to manage the affairs of the state until the government should go into operation under the constitution. 

        This independence Vermont pursued, asking no favors. enjoying no benefits of the Union and sharing none of its burdens, until March 4, I791, when she was admitted as one of the Federal States, with the full rights and immunities belonging thereto. Thus Vermont exists to-day -- so may she always exist. 

        The constitution has remained without very material alterations, the chief being the substitution of a Senate of thirty members, appointed to the several counties according to population, and chosen by a plurality of the free-men of the several counties, in lieu of a council of twelve members chosen by a plurality of the voters of the state at large; and in 1870 a change from annual to biennial state elections and meetings of the legislature. The frame of government now provides for, 1st. The executive, the chief officers of which are governor, lieutenant-governor, and treasurer, all of whom are elected biennially, by the freemen of the state. 2d. A Senate of thirty members, elected as before mentioned. 3d. A House of Representatives, consisting of one member from each organized town, elected by the freemen thereof. 4th. A judiciary, the officers of which are elective, the judges of the supreme court (who are also chancellors), by the Senate and the House of Representatives, in joint assembly; the assistant judges of county courts {a judge of the supreme court presides in each county court), judges of the probate courts, sheriffs, state's attorneys and high bailiffs, by the freemen of the respective counties; and justices of the peace by the freemen of the several towns. The State election is held in September, biennially, and a majority of all the votes cast is required to elect every officer, except senators and other county officers, including in the latter justices of the peace elected by the several towns; but in March the freemen of each town meet for the transaction of public business of the town, and the election of town officers. Every term of town office is limited to one year, or until others are elected, and all town elections are therefore annual. The governor's power of appointment is very limited, embracing, ordinarily, his secretary and military staff only; but he has power to fill any office created by law, where the appointment is not fixed by the constitution or statute, a case which has rarely occurred; and also to fill any vacancy occurring by death or other-wise, until the office can be filled in the manner required by constitution or laws. By recent statutes, the governor may nominate, subject to approval by the senate, various offices. The heads of the various state bureaus (except treasurer) and generals of divisions and brigades are elected by the Senate and House in joint assembly; the former officers biennially and generals when vacancies occur. The general assembly meets in the even years, on the first Wednesday in October. The first officers elected, in 1778, were as follows: Thomas Chittenden, governor; Joseph Marsh, lieutenant-governor, Ira Allen, treasurer, T. Chandler, secretary of state; Nathan Clarke, speaker; and Benjamin Baldwin, clerk. 

        Cumberland county was the first county established in the grants, being erected by the legislature of the province of New York, July 3, 1766, comprising about the district of territory now included within the limits of Windham and Windsor counties, and received its name probably from Prince William, Duke of Cumberland, who, in 1746, met with distinguished success in opposing the rebels of Scotland. The lands now included in the area of Essex and Caledonia counties, previous to 1764 were supposed to be in the New Hampshire Grants, and some of the land was granted by the governor of that state to different parties. It was, however, included in New York in the year above named; and March 7, 1770, the government of that colony erected the county of Gloucester. It was organized by the assembly of New York, March 16, of the same year, with Newbury for its shire, and contained all the territory in the north part of the state which has since been divided into Orange, Washington, Caledonia, Orleans and Essex counties.

        After Vermont became a state the first general assembly, in 1778, on the 17th of March, divided the state into Bennington and Cumberland counties, Bennington county on the west and Cumberland county on the east, making the dividing line the height of land on the Green Mountain range, which was then supposed to be a regular range passing through the state from north to south, dividing it nearly in the center. But this was so indefinite that, February 11, 1779, they definitely fixed the division line as follows: 
 
 


 
  "Commencing at a point in the south line of the Province of Quebec, fifty miles east of the center of the deepest channel of Lake Champlain, extending south to the northeast corner of the town of Worcester [in Washington county] and along the east lines of Worcester, Middlesex and Berlin, to the southeast corner of the 1atter town; thence on a straight line to the northwest corner of Tunbridge [in Orange county], and on the west line of Tunbridge to the southwest corner of that town; thence in a straight line to the northwest corner of Barnard [in Windsor county]; thence on the west line of Barnard and Bridgewater, and the east line of Shrewsbury [in Rutland county] to the southeast corner thereof; thence west to the northeast corner of Wallingford; thence south on the east lines of Wallingford, Mt. Tabor, Peru, Winhall and Stratton, to the southeast corner of the latter town, and west on the south line of Stratton to the northwest corner of Somerset ; thence south on the west line of Somerset to the southwest corner thereof; thence east to the northwest corner of Wilmington; thence south on the west line of Wilmington and Whitingham to the north line of Massachusetts." 

        This session changed the name of Cumberland county to Unity county; but as the change was made by a small majority it was recalled four days later and the name Cumberland reinstated. In October, 1780, the county of Cumberland was divided into half shires, of Cumberland and Gloucester, and in 1781, by act of legislature for the division of counties, Cumberland county, as a whole, was divided into Windham, Windsor and Orange counties. Orange county embraced all the northeast part of the state as formerly embraced in Gloucester county, and more recently as the shire of Gloucester. Newbury was the shire of Orange county. November 5, 1792, Caledonia county was incorporated from Orange county, containing all the territory north of the present bounds of Orange county; but this county was not fully organized until November 8, 1796, when Danville was made its shire. It received its name from "Caledonia," the ancient Roman name of Scotland, out of courtesy to the numerous emigrants from that country who located here. In 1798 Orleans and Essex counties were incorporated from Caledonia, but were not fully organized until 1799, at which time Lunenburgh and Brunswick were established as half shires of Essex county. At the October session of the legislature in 1800, county officers were commissioned for the latter county, and in 1801 the shire was changed to Guildhall, where it has remained. In 1811, when the state was divided into eleven counties, four towns were taken from Caledonia towards forming Washington county, to which Woodbury was annexed in 1836 and Cabot in 1855. In 1856 the county seat was removed from Danville to St. Johnsbury, where new county buildings were erected -- large, elegant structures. 

        Caledonia county is thus today bounded on the north by Orleans county, east by Essex county, southeast by Connecticut river, which separates it from Grafton county, N. H., south by Orange county, and west by Washington and Lamoille counties. It lies between 44° 10', and 44° 45' north latitude, its length from north to south being about forty miles, and its breadth from east to west about thirty miles, thus having an area of about 700 square miles, which is divided into seventeen townships, as follows: Barnet, Burke, Danville, Groton, Hardwick, Kirby, Lyndon, Newark, Peacham, Ryegate, Sheffield, Stannard, St. Johnsbury, Sutton, Walden, Waterford and Wheelock. It has a population of 23,607 souls. 

        The western part of the county is mountainous; but though the towns in that part are on high lands, they admit of successful cultivation. The eastern part is an excellent farming country. The intervals on the Connecticut and Passumpsic rivers are easily cultivated. From the tops of the mountains in different parts of the county extensive prospects may be obtained and in some sites grand views of the White mountains of New Hampshire, and the Green mountains of Vermont may be enjoyed.  A mountain in Burke, rising to a height of 3,500 feet, is probably the highest land. 

        The county is well watered by many streams. The Connecticut river runs on the southeast side. The northern towns are watered by the head branches of the Passumpsic river, which is the largest in the county, and runs south and empties into the Connecticut river in Barnet. Wells, Stevens and Joe's river water it on the south, and the head branches of Onion (or Winooski) and Lamoille rivers on the west. There are about twenty lakes and ponds in the county, the chief of which are Harvey's lake, in Barnet; Wells river and Lund's ponds, in Groton; Cole's pond, in Walden; Clark's and Center ponds, in Newark; and Stile's pond, in Waterford. Fish of various kinds abound in most of the ponds and rivers. There are falls at different places on the Connecticut, Passumpsic, Wells and Joe's rivers. Stevens river, near its mouth, falls eighty feet in the distance of twenty rods. The water-power is improved by mills and factories built at the falls and other places on the streams. 

        There are numerous mineral springs in the County, and some are valuable. Perhaps more noted than any others are the sulphur springs in Wheelock. One is situated in the village, on the property of the late W. J. Fletcher, and the other but a short distance from the village, being brought by aqueduct to the former Spring hotel in the village, now converted into a tenement house. There are others of considerable note at Haynesville, in Hardwick, and near the old bone-meal factory in St. Johnsbury, where one comes out of the rack near Moose river, So near it is covered in high water by the water of the river . 

        Essex County lies between 44° 20' and 45° north latitude, and 4° 51' and 5° 28' east longitude, from Washington, bounded north by the Canada line; east and south by the Connecticut river, which borders it for more than sixty-five miles; southwest by Caledonia county; and west by Orleans county. It is about forty-five miles in length, from north to south, and about twenty-three miles in width, comprising about 607 square miles of territory, or 388,401 acres, divided into sixteen towns and three gores, as follows: Averill (unorganized), Avery's Gore (unorganized), Bloomfield, Brighton, Brunswick, Canaan, Concord, East Haven, Ferdinand (unorganized), Granby, Guildhall, Lemington, Lewis (unorganized), Lunenburgh, Maidstone, Norton, Victory, Warner's Grant (unorganized), and Warren's Gore (unorganized). It has a population of 7,931 souls. 

        The surface of the county is hilly, and in some parts mountainous. Among the greatest elevations' are Mile's mountain, in Concord, 2, 700 feet; Mt. Terg, in Lunenburgh, 2,210 feet; Umpire mountain, in Victory, 2,500 feet; Notch mountain, in Brunswick, 2,420 feet; Monadnock mountain, in Lemington, 3,025 feet. The following are also the heights of some points of interest where they have been definitely determined: Head of Fifteen-miles falls, on the Connecticut, at Lunenburgh, 806 feet; Lunenburgh village, 1,285 feet; Concord Corners, 1,095 feet; Island pond, 1,250 feet; Guildhall falls, water in from above, 810 feet; mouth of Nulhegan, 962 feet; East Concord, 794 feet; West Concord, 816 feet; Canaan Bridge, 1,051 feet; Baldwin hill, Lunenburgh, 2,180 feet; Morse hill, Concord, 2,050 feet. 
 
 

Transcribed and provided by Tom Dunn, 2003

Source: 
Gazetteer of Caledonia and Essex, Counties, VT., 1764-1887,
Compiled and Published by Hamilton Child; May 1887, Pages 5-124.