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Arthur Barlowe's Journal of the 1584 expedition
Scott Dawson transcribed excerpts from the journal kept of the 1584 expedition, presumed to have been kept by Arthur Barlowe, as found below. His source was the handbook provided to the interpretive guides at Fort Raleigh when he was employed there. This document is currently being transcribed a second time to compare the two versions for accuracy. The originals are written in old English, in Secretarial script and are difficult at best to translate:
ACTUAL: The 27 day of April , in the year of our redemption,
1584 we departed the West of England, with two barks well furnished with men and
victuals, having received our last and perfect direcions by your letters,
confirming the former instructions, and commandments delivered by your self at
our leaving the river of Thames. And I think it a matter both unnecessary for
the manifest discovery of the Country , as also for tediousness sake, to
remember unto you the diurnal of our course, sailing thither and returning: only
I have presumed to present unto you this brief discourse, by which you may judge
how profitable this land is likely to succeed , as well to your self , (by whose
direction and charge, and by whose servants this our discovery hath been
performed) as also to her Highness , and the Common wealth, in which we hope
your wisdom will be satisfied, considering that as much as by us hath been
brought to light, as by those small means , and number of men we had, could any
way have been expected or hoped for. The tenth of May we arrived at the
Canaries, and the tenth of June in this present year , we were fallen with the
Islands of the West Indies, keeping a more Southeasterly course then was needful
, because we doubted that the current of the Bay of Mexico, disbogging between
the Cape of Florida and Havana, had been of greater force then afterwards we
found it to be . At which Islands we found the air very unwholsome, and our men
grew for the most part ill disposed: so that having refreshed our selves with
sweet water, & fresh victual , we departed the twelfth day of our arrival
there. These Islands, with the rest adjoining , are so well known to your self ,
and to many others, as I will not trouble you with the remembrance of them. The second of July, we found shoal
water, where we smelled so sweet, and so strong a smell , as if we had been in
the midst of some delicate garden abounding with all kind of odoriferous
flowers, by which we were assured, that the land could not be far distant: and
keeping good watch, and bearing but slack sail , the fourth of the same month we
arrived upon the coast, which we supposed to be a continent and firm land , and
we sailed along the same a hundred and twenty English miles before we could find
any entrance, or river issuing into the Sea. The first that appeared unto us, we
entered , though not without some difficulty , & cast anchor about three
harqquebuz-shot within the havens mouth, on the left hand of the same: and after
thanks given to God for our safe arrival thither, we manned our boats, and went
to view the land next adjoining , and to take possession of the same, in the
right of the Queen's most excellent Majesty , as rightful Queen , and Princess
of the same, and after delivered the same over to your use, according to her
Majesty's grant, and letters patents, under her Highness great Seale. Which
being performed, according to the ceremonies used in such enterprises, we viewed
the land about us, being, whereas we first landed, very sandy and low towards
the waters side, but so full of grapes, as the very beating and surge of the Sea
overflowed them, of which we found such plenty , as well there as in all places
else, both on the sand and on the green soil on the hills , as in the plains ,
as well on every little shrub , as also climbing towards the tops of high
Cedars, that I think in all the world the like abundance is not to be found: and
my self having seen those parts of Europe that most abound, find such difference
as were incredible to be written. We passed from the Sea side
towards the tops of those hills next adjoining , being but of mean height and
from thence we beheld the Sea on both sides to the North, and to the South,
finding no end any of both ways . This land lay stretching it self to the West,
which after we found to be but an Island of twenty miles long, and not above six
miles broad . Under the bank or hill whereon we stood , we beheld the valleys
replenished with goodly Cedar trees, and having discharged our harquebuz-shot,
such a flock of Cranes (the most part white) arose under us, with such a cry
redoubled by many ecchoes, as if an army of men had shouted all together. This Island had many goodly woods
full of Deer , Conies, Hares, and Fowl , even in the midst of Summer in
incredible abundance. The woods are not such as you find in Bohemia, Muscovia,
or Hercynia, barren and fruitless , but the highest and reddest Cedars of the
world, far bettering the Cedars of the Azores , of the Indies, or Lybanus, Pines
, Cypress , Sassafras , the Lentisk, or the tree that bears the Mastic , the
tree that bears the rine of black Cinnamon , of which Master Winter brought from
the straights of Magellan, and many other of excellent smell and quality . We
remained by the side of this Island two whole days before we saw any people of
the Country : the third day we spied one small boat rowing towards us having in
it three persons: this boat came to the Island side, four harquebuz-shot from
our ships , and there two of the people remaining, the third came along the
shoreside towards us, and we being then all within board , he walked up and down
upon the point of the land next unto us: then the Master and the Pilot of the
Admiral , Simon Fernandino , and the Captain Philip Amadas , my self , and
others rowed to the land, whose coming this fellow attended, never making any
show of fear or doubt. And after he had spoken of many things not understood by
us, we brought him with his own good liking, aboard the ships, and gave him a
shirt, a hat & some other things, and made him taste of our wine, and our
meat, which he liked very well : and after having viewed both barks, he
departed, and went to his own boat again , which he had left in a little Cove or
Creek adjoining : as soon as he was two bow shoot into the water, he fell to
fishing, and in less then half an hour , he had laden his boat as deep , as it
could swim , with which he came again to the point of the land , and there he
divided his fish into two parts, pointing one part to the ship, and the other to
the pinnesse: which, after he had (as much as he might) requited the former
benefits received, departed out of our sight. The next day there came unto us
diverse boats , and in one of them the Kings brother, accompanied with forty or
fifty men, very handsome and goodly people, and in their behavior as mannerly
and civil as any of Europe. His name was Granganimeo , and the king is called
Wingina , the country Wingandacoa, and now by her Majesty Virginia. The manner
of his coming was in this sort: he left his boats altogether as the first man
did a little from the ships by the shore, and came along to the place over
against the ships, followed with forty men. When he came to the place over
against the ships, followed with forty men. When he came to the place, his
servants spread a long mat upon the ground, on which he sat down , and at the
other end of the mat four others of his company did the like, the rest of his
men stood round about him, somewhat a far off: when we came to the shore to him
with our weapons, he never moved from his place, nor any of the other four , nor
never mistrusted any harm to be offered from us, but sitting still he beckoned
us to come and sit by him, which we performed: and being set he made all signs
of joy and welcome, striking on his head and his breast and afterwards on ours,
to show we were all one, smiling and making show the best he could of all love,
and familiarity . After he had made a long speech unto us, we presented him with
diverse things, which he received very joyfully, and thankfully . None of the
company dared speak one word all the time: only the four which were at the other
end , spoke one in the others ear very softly. The King is greatly obeyed, and
his brothers and children reverenced: the King himself in person was at our
being there, sore wounded in a fight which he had with the King of the next
country , called Wingina, and was shot in two places through the body, and once
clean through the thigh, but yet he recovered: by reason whereof and for that he
lay at the chief town of the country , being six days journey off, we saw him
not at all. After we had presented this his
brother with such things as we thought he liked, we likewise gave somewhat to
the other that sat with him on the mat : but presently he arose and took all
from them and put it into his own basket, making signs and tokens, that all
things ought to be delivered unto him, and the rest were but his servants, and
followers. A day or two after this we fell to trading with them, exchanging some
things that we had, for Chamois , Buffe, and Deer skins : when we showed him all
our packet of merchandise , of all things that he saw , a bright tin dish most
pleased him, which he presently took up and clapped it before his breast, and
after made a hole in the brim thereof and hung it about his neck , making signs
that it would defend him against his enemies arrows : for those people maintain
a deadly and terrible war , with the people and King adjoining . We exchanged
our tin dish for twenty skins , worth twenty Crowns , or twenty Nobles: and a
copper kettle for fifty skins worth fifty Crowns . They offered us good exchange
for our hatchets, and axes, and for knives, and would have given any thing for
swords : but we would not depart with any. After two or three days the Kings
brother came aboard the ships , and drank wine, and eat of our meat and of our
bread, and liked exceedingly thereof: and after a few days overpassed, he
brought his wife with him to the ships, his daughter and two or three children:
his wife was very well favored , of mean stature and very bashful : she had on
her back a long cloak of leather, with the fur side next to her body, and before
her a piece of the same: about her forehead she had a band of white Coral , and
so had her husband many times: in her ears she had bracelets of pearls hanging
down to her middle, (whereof we delivered your worship a little bracelet) and
those were of the bigness of good peas . The rest of her women of the better
sort had pendants of copper hanging in either ear , and some of the children of
the kings brother and other noble men, have five or six in either ear : he
himself had upon his head a broad plate of gold , or copper for being unpolished
we knew not what metal it should be, neither would he by any means suffer us to
take it off his head, but feeling it, would bow very easily. His apparel was as
his wives, only the women wear their hair long on both sides , and the men but
on one. They are of color yellowish, and their hair black for the most part, and
yet we saw children that had very fine auburn , and chestnut colored hair . After that these women had been there,
there came down from all parts great store of people, bringing with them
leather, coral , diverse kinds of dyes very excellent, and exchanged with us:
but when Granganimeo the kings brother was present, none dared trade but himself
: except such as wear red pieces of copper on their heads like himself : for
that is the difference between the noble men, and the governors of the countries
, and you have understood since by these men, which we brought home, that no
people in the world carry more respect to their King, Nobility , and Governors ,
then these do . The Kings brothers wife, when she came to us (as she did many
times) was followed with forty or fifty women always : and when she came into
the ship , she left them all on land, saving her two daughters, her nurse and
one or two more. The Kings brother always kept this order, as many boats as he
would come withal to the ships , so many fires would he make on the shore a far
off, to the end we might understand with what strength and company he
approached. Their boats are made of one tree, either of Pine or of Pitch trees:
a wood not commonly known to our people, nor found growing in England. They have
no edge- tools to make them withal : if they have any they are very few , and
those it seems they had twenty years since, which, as those two men declared,
was out of a wreck which happened upon their coast of some Christian ship, being
beaten that way by some storm and outrageous weather, whereof none of the people
were saved, but only the ship, or some part of her being cast upon the sand, out
of whose sides they drew the nails and the spikes, and with those they made
their best instruments. The manner of making their boats is thus: they burn down
some great tree, or take such as are wind fallen, and putting gum and rosin upon
one side thereof, they set fire into it, and when it had burnt it hollow, they
cut out the coal with their shells , and ever where they would burn it deeper or
wider they lay on gums , which burn away the timber, and by these meanes they
fashion very fine boats , and such as will transport twenty men. Their oars are
like scoops , and many times they set with long poles , as the depth serveth. The Kings brother had great liking of
our armor , a sword, and diverse other things which we had: and offered to lay a
great box of pearl in gage for them: but we refused it for this time, because we
would not make them know , that we esteemed thereof, until we had understood in
what places of the country the pearl grew: which now your Worship do very well
understand. He was very just of his promise:
for many times we delivered him merchandise upon his word, but ever he came
within the day and performed his promise. He sent us every day a brace or two of
fat Bucks, Conies, Hares, Fish the best of the world. He sent us diverse kinds
of fruits , Melons, Walnuts, Cucumbers, Gourds , Peas , and diverse roots , and
fruits very excellent good, and of their Country corn , which is very white,
fair and well tasted, and grows three times in five months : in May they sow, in
July they reap , in June they sow, in August they reap : in July they sow, in
September they reap : only they cast the corn into the ground breaking a little
of the soft turf with a wooden mattock, or pickaxe : our selves proved the soil
, and put some of our Peas in the ground, and in ten days they were of fourteen
inches high: they have also Beans very fair of diverse colors and wonderful
plenty : some growing naturally, and some in their gardens, and so have they
both wheat and oats . The soil is the most
plentiful , sweet , fruitful and wholesome of all the world : there are above
fourteen several sweet smelling timber trees, and the most part of their
underwoods are Bayes and such like: they have those Oaks that we have, but far
greater and better. After they had been diverse times aboard our ships , my self
, with seven more went twenty mile into the River, that runs toward the City of
Skicoak, which River they call Occam: and the evening following, we came to an
island, which they call Raonoak, distant from the harbor by which we entered ,
seven leagues: and at the North end thereof was a village of nine houses, built
of Cedar, and fortified round about with sharp trees, to keep out their enemies,
and the entrance into it made like a turnpike very artificially; when we came
towards it, standing near unto the waters side, the wife of Granganimo the kings
brother came running out to meet us very cheerfully and friendly, her husband
was not then in the village; some of her people she commanded to draw our boat
on shore for the beating of the billoe: others she appointed to carry us on
their backs to the dry ground, and others to bring our oars into the house for
fear of stealing. When we were come into the other room , having five rooms in
her house, she caused us to sit down by a great fire, and after took off our
clothes and washed them, and dried them again : some of the women plucked off
our stockings and washed them, some washed our feet in warm water, and she her
self took great pains to see all things ordered in the best manner she could,
making great haste to dress some meat for us to eat . After we had thus dried our
selves, she brought us into the inner room , where she set on the board standing
along the house, some wheat like fermented , sodden Venison, and roasted, fish
sodden, boiled , and roasted, Melons raw , and sodden roots of diverse kinds ,
and diverse fruits : their drink is commonly water, but while the grape lasts ,
they drink wine, and for want of casks to keep it, all the year after they drink
water, but it is sodden with Ginger in it, and black Cinnamon , and sometimes
Sassafras , and diverse other wholesome, and medicinable herbs and trees. We
were entertained with all love and kindness , and with as much bounty (after
their manner ) as they could possibly devise. We found the people most gentle,
loving, and faithful , void of all guile and treason, and such as live after the
manner of the golden age. The people only care how to defend themselves from the
cold in their short winter, and to feed themselves with such meat as the soil
affords : their meat is very well sodden and they make broth very sweet and
savory : their vessels are earthen pots, very large, white and sweet , their
dishes are wooden platters of sweet timber: within the place where they feed was
their lodging, and within that their Idol , which they worship, of whom they
speak incredible things. While we were at meat , there came in at the gates two
or three men with their bows and arrows from hunting, whom when we spied , we
began to look one towards another, and offered to reach our weapons: but as soon
as she spied our mistrust, she was very much moved , and caused some of her men
to run out, and take away their bows and arrows and break them, and withal beat
the poor fellows out of the gate again . When we departed in the evening and
would not tarry all night, she was very sorry , and gave us into our boat our
supper half dressed, pots and all, and brought us to our boatside , in which we
lay all night, remooving the same a pretty distance from the shore : she
perceiving our jealousy , was much greived, and sent diverse men and thirty
women, to sit all night on the bank side by us, and sent us into our boats five
mats to cover us from the rain , using very many words to entreat us to rest in
their houses: but because we were few men, and if we had miscarried , the voyage
had been in very great danger, we dared not adventure any thing, though there
was no cause of doubt: for a more kind and loving people there can not be found
in the world , as far as we have hitherto had trial. Beyond this Island there is
the main land , and over against this Island falls into this spacious water, the
great river called Occam by the inhabitants on which stands a town called
Pomeiock, & six days journey from the same is situated their greatest city
called Skicoak, which this people affirm to be very great: but the Savages were
never at it, only they speak of it by the report of their fathers and other men,
whom they have heard affirm it to be above one hour's journey about. Into this river falls
another great river, called Cipo, in which there is found great store of Mussels
in which there are pearls : likewise there descends into this Occam, another
river, called Nomopana, on the one side whereof stands a great town called
Chawanook, and the Lord of that town and country is called Pooneno : this
Poomeno is not subject to the king of Wingandacoa, but is a free Lord: beyond
this country is there another king, whom they call Menatonon , and these three
kings are in league with each other. Towards the Southwest, four days journey is
situated a town called Sequotan, which is the Southernmost town of Wingandacoa,
near unto which, six and twenty years past there was a ship cast away, whereof
some of the people were saved, and those were white people, whome the country
people preserved. And after ten days remaining in an
out Island uninhabited , called Wocokon, they with the help of some of the
dwellers of Sequotan, fastened two boats of the country together & made
masts unto them, and sails of their shirts , and having taken into them such
victuals as the country yielded , they departed after they had remained in this
out Island 3 weeks : but shortly after it seemed they were cast away, for the
boats were found upon the coast, cast a land in another Island adjoining : other
then these, there was never any people appareled , or white of color , either
seen or heard of amongst these people, and these aforesaid were seen only of the
inhabitants of Secotan, which appeared to be very true, for they wondered
marvelously when we were amongst them at the whiteness of our skins, ever
coveting to touch our breasts, and to view the same. Besides they had our ships
in marvelous admiration, & all things else were so strange unto them, as it
appeared that none of them had ever seen the like. When we discharged any piece,
were it but an hargubuz, they would tremble at it for very fear , and for the
strangeness of the same: for the weapons which themselves use are bows and
arrows : the arrows are but of small canes, headed with a sharp shell or tooth
of a fish sufficient enough to kill a naked man. Their swordes be of wood
hardened: likewise they use wooden breastplates for their defense . They have
besides a kind of club, in the end whereof they fasten the sharp horns of a stag
, or other beast. When they goe to wars they carry about with them their idol,
of whom they ask counsel, as the Romans were wont of the Oracle of Apollo. They
sing songs as they march towards the battle in stead of drums and trumpets:
their wars are very cruel and bloody, by reason whereof, and of their civil
dissentions which have happened of late years amongst them, the people are
marvelously wasted, and in some places the country left desolate. Adjoining to this country
aforesaid called Secotan begins a country called Pomovik, belonging to another
king whom they call Piamacum , and this king is in league with the next king
adjoining towards the setting of the Sun , and the country Newsiok, situated
upon a goodly river called Neus: these kings have mortal war with Wingina king
of Wingandacoa: but about two years past there was a peace made between the King
Piemacum , and the Lord of Secotan, as these men which we have brought with us
to England, have given us to understand: but there remains a mortal malice in
the Secotanes, for many injuries and slaughters done upon them by this Piemacum.
They invited diverse men, and thirty women of the best of his country to their
town to a feast: and when they were altogether merry, & praying before their
Idol, (which is nothing else but a mere illusion of the devil) the captain or
Lord of the town came suddenly upon them, and slew them every one, reserving the
women and children: and these two have often times since persuaded us to
surprise Piemacum his town , having promised and assured us, that there will be
found in it great store of commodities. But whether their persuasion be to the
end they may be revenged of their enemies, or for the love of they bear to us,
we leave that to the trial hereafter. Beyond the Island called
Roanoak, are main Islands very plentiful of fruits and other natural increases,
together with many towns , and villages, along the side of the continent, some
bounding upon the Islands, and some stretching up further into the land. When we first had sight of
this country , some thought the first land we saw to be the continent: but after
we entered into the Haven, we saw before us another mighty long Sea: for there
lies along the coast a tract of Islands, two hundred miles in length, adjoining
to the Ocean sea, and between the Islands, two or three entrances: when you are
entered between them (these Islands being very narrow for the most part, as in
most places six miles broad, in some places less , in few more) then there
appears another great Sea, containing in breadth in some places, forty, and in
some fifty, in some twenty miles over, before you come unto the continent: and
in this enclosed Sea there are above an hundred Islands of diverse bigness ,
whereof one is sixteen miles long, at which we were finding it a most pleasant
and fertile ground, replenished with goodly Cedars, and diverse other sweet
woods, full of Corrants, of flax , and many other notable commodities, which we
at that time had no leisure to view. Besides this Island there are many, as I
have said , some of two or three, or four , or five miles, some more, some less
, most beautiful and pleasant to behold, replenished with Deer , Conies, Hares
and diverse beasts, and about them the goodliest and best fish in the world, and
in greatest abundance. Thus Sir, we have acquainted you
with the particulars of our discovery, made this present voyage, as far forth as
the shortness of the time we there continued would afford us take view of: and
so contenting our selves with this service at this time, which we hope hereafter
to enlarge , as occasion and assistance shall be given, we resolved to leave the
country , and to apply our selves to return for England, which we did
accordingly, and arrived safely in the West of England about the middle of
September. And whereas we have above
certified you of the country taken in possession by us, to her Majesty's use,
and so to yours by her =Majesty's grant, we thought good for the better
assurance thereof to record some of the particular Gentleman, & men of
account , who then were present as witnesses of the same, that thereby all
occasion of dispute to the title of the country , in her majesty's behalf may be
prevented, which otherwise, such as like not the action may use and pretend,
whose names are: Captains Master Philip
Amadas Master Arthur Barlow Of the
Companie William
Greenevile John Wood James
Browewich Henry Greene Benjamin Wood Simon
Ferdinando Nicholas
Petman John Hewes
We brought
home also two of the Savages being lusty men whose names were Wanchese and
Manteo.
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