Warren County
Local History by Dallas Bogan |
Contributor: |
Dallas Bogan on 6 August 2004 |
Source: |
"The Pioneer Writings of Josiah Morrow." by Dallas Bogan |
Return to Index to see a list of other articles by Dallas Bogan |
Great Feasts Followed by Starvation---Venison And Green Corn Boiled---Dried Green Corn---Bread Made of Pounded Corn and Beans---Dog Meat---Maple Sugar Mixed With Fat.
July 9, 1908
I conclude my articles on the agriculture of the Indians with an account of
the foods and cookery of the aboriginal tribes of North America. Our knowledge
of the subject is obtained from the narratives of the early explorers and of
white captives. The first account we have of life among the Indians of Ohio
is that given by James Smith in his story of life among the
Indians, printed thirty years after his return to his own people. A part of
the long title of his book is:
"An account of the Remarkable Occurrences in the Life and Travels of Col.
James Smith (now a citizen of Bourbon county, Ky.) during his captivity
with the Indians in the years 1755, '56, '57, '58 and '59. In which the Customs,
Manners, Traditions, Theological Sentiments, Make of Warfare, Military Tactics,
Discipline and Encampments, Treatment of Prisoners, etc., are better explained
and more minutely related than has heretofore been done by any author on that
subject. Written by himself. Lexington: printed by John Bradford
on Main street, 1799."
The author was a Scotch-Irish native of Pennsylvania, but later in life a resident of Kentucky where he was licensed as a minister of the Presbyterian church. In 1810 he made bitter attacks on the Shakers, some of which were first published in the Western Star at Lebanon. In his last years he wrote a treatise on the best mode of conducting a war against the Indians, the title of which was so long that the reading of all of it would somewhat delay the beginning of a campaign.
Col. Smith's narrative of his life among the Indians gives
us the first picture of Ohio as the habitation of red men. He is said to have
been the first writer in English who has given an account of his adventures
northwest of the Ohio. His book gives us glimpses of the agriculture of the
Indians, of their feasts and their periods of starvation.
He tells of a feast of "venison and green corn, boiled in large brass kettles,
and eaten from a large bowl with a wooden spoon; of a kind of rough, brown potato,
which grow spontaneously; these potatoes, peeled and dipped in raccoon's fat,
taste nearly like our sweet potatoes." It is evident that this edible root
or tuber was not the potato. They also had "a kind of hominy, made of green
corn dried, and beans mixed together." "Green corn dried;" here
was the corn-drying industry in Ohio among the Indians. Sometimes they had hominy
by itself, without bread, salt, or anything else. "Sometimes (as a rarity)
we had bread made of Indian corn meal, pounded on a hominy block and mixed with
boiled beans, and baked in cakes under the ashes." The great importance
of their agricultural products is shown by Smith's statement that when the warriors
went on a military campaign, "all we had to live on was corn pounded into
meal of small hominy; this they boiled in water."
At this period corn and beans were evidently the staples of Indian agriculture
in Ohio, tho Smith makes mention of tobacco, squash-skins and gourds, without
stating whether they were grown in this region or not.
The life of the Indians as described by Col. Smith, was full
of extremes. At one time they would be feasting in abundance; again they would
be starving, and many died from want and exposure. The season of greatest plenty
was in the autumn when they could have ears of green corn for roasting and boiling.
They then cared little for animal food. Having gorged themselves with boiled
or roasted corn they felt little disposition to roam the woods for game.
In the winter hunting was essential. When they were without corn or other vegetable
food and a crust was frozen over the snow so that in walking the hunter's foot-steps
would make a noise to scare away the game, the greatest scarcity of food would
be extinct and days would be past with scarcely a mouthful to eat.
We can easily believe that the greatest annual festival was the feast of green
corn. For this great occasion the women brought in the ears of corn and other
products of the fields and the hunters supplied meat from the forest. At this
festival they made an offering to the Great Spirit.
A prayer to the Great Spirit reported in Col. Smith's book
shows the kind of animal food the Indian in Ohio was most anxious to obtain
as well as his high estimation of tobacco. In the winter of 1757-58 Smith was
with some Indians on their long winter's hunt. They made a bark canoe and started
down the Darbey creek (then called the Olentangy) for the Scioto, but the water
was too low in the creek and they were compelled to wait for a rain. The prayer
of the chief made while they were waiting, was put into English words by Smith:
"Grant that on this voyage we may frequently kill bears as they cross the
Scioto and the Sandusky. Grant that we may kill plenty of turkeys along the
banks to stew with our fat bear meat. Grant that rain may come to raise the
Olentangy about two or three feet that we may pass safely down to the Scioto
without danger to our canoe being wrecked on the rocks. And now, O Great Being,
thou knowest how matters stand. Thou knowest I am a great lover of tobacco,
and tho I know not when I may get any more, I now make a present of this, the
last I have, unto thee as a free burnt offering. Therefore I expect thou wilt
hear and grant these requests and I thy servant, will return the thanks and
love for thy gift."
Col. Smith records that in a few days the rains came and raised
so that they safely reached the Scioto. The stock of furs secured on the hunt
was taken down the Sandusky to the lake and disposed of to traders at Detroit.
The Indians Col. Smith described one hundred and fifty years
ago already ad the white man's gun, his iron tomahawk and brass kettle. Fortunately
we have an account of a feast got up one hundred and fifty years earlier by
the Native Americans and certainly before their habits had been modified by
the white race. In 1609 Henry Hudson sailed up the great river
of New York which bears his name and saw red men who had never before seen a
white man. Sometimes his ship, the Half Moon, was saluted with volleys of arrows,
but in some places the natives were more friendly. Near the site of Catskill
the great discoverer went on shore and was most hospitably entertained. Says
Hudson:
"I sailed to the shore in one of their canoes with an old man who was the
chief of a tribe consisting of forty men and seventeen women. These I saw there
in a house well constructed of oak bark and circular in shape, so that it had
the appearance of being well built, with an arched roof. It contained a great
quantity of maize and beans of last year's growth, and there lay near the house
for the purpose of drying enough to load three ships, besides what was growing
in the fields. On our coming into the house, two mats were spread out to sit
upon, and immediately some food was served in well made red wooden bowls; two
men were also dispatched with bows and arrows in quest of game, who soon after
brought in a pair of pigeons which they had shot. They likewise killed a fat
dog and skinned it in great haste with shells which they had got out of the
water. They supposed that I would remain with them for the night, but I returned
after a short time on board the ship."
The fat dog which in this feast took the place of the fatted calf in the oriental
festivities seems to have belonged to the only domesticated race of quadruplets
in aboriginal North America. A little dog seems to have been among the Indian
tribes when the continent was first discovered, and the first motive in taming
it may have been to furnish food rather than assist in the hunt. The origin
of the dog of the American Indians is unknown as is that of the domesticated
dog in every other part of the world.
Of the natural fats which are so important an element in the food of man in
cold climates the Indians having no milk were entirely without butter and they
had few vegetable oils, but they collected the fat of the beaver, the raccoon
and the bear. Col. Smith describes the work of the squaws in the latter end
of March as frying out the last of their bear's fat and making vessels to hold
it. These vessels were made by pulling the skin from a deer's neck without ripping,
one of which would hold about four or five gallons. In these vessels they carried
their bear's oil. It is also said that some Indians preserved fat by stuffing
it into the entrails of large animals as the whites now preserve sausage meats.
Some tribes collected the marrow of bones by breaking the bones and boiling
the pieces when the marrows would rise to the top and be skimmed off.
Salt making does not seem to have been common among the mound building tribes.
Col. Smith relates that he was taken to a buffalo lick somewhere
in eastern Ohio and there the Indians killed several buffalo and in their small
brass kettles made about half a bushel of salt.
The Indians paid much attention to the making of maple sugar and it seems went
sometimes a considerable distance from their villages for this purpose. In the
entry of a Virginia military land warrant on the east side of the Little Miami
on August 1, 1787, there is a reference to the first old sugar camp above where
Clark's old war road crosses the river being near where Corwin now is. Col.
Smith thus describes the method of making sugar in Ohio in February
1756.
The Indian women peeled bark from elm trees and made with the bark over one
hundred vessels each holding about two gallons. Into these vessels the sugar
water was collected from notches made in sugar maple trees. They also made bark
vessels for carrying the water from the trees which would hold about four gallons
each. They had two large brass vessels that would hold about fifteen gallons
each and smaller vessels in which they boiled the water. But as they could not
boil the water as fast as it ran, they made other vessels of bark that would
hold about one hundred gallons of the water. These vessels seem to have been
made water tight by the women in the same manner as the men made their bark
canoes.
I have found no certain evidence that Indians made either salt or sugar by boiling
before the white man gave them metallic vessels, but it is not improbable that
they did. The primitive method of boiling was by stones heated hot and placed
in the water collected into holes in the ground or in rocks, or into wooden
vessels.
The Ohio Indians put maple sugar into bear's fat and dipped their roasted venison
into the sweet mixture. They also ate sugar with their corn whether green or
in the form of hominy. Dr. Benjamin Rush says the Indians mixed
equal quantities of maple sugar and powdered corn and on a journey a few spoonfuls
of the mixture afforded a pleasant and strengthening meal.
In their struggle for subsistence the native tribes obtained a knowledge of
many edible herbs and roots of which the white man knew nothing. James
Adair, after living with them many years, says that an Indian driven
out into the woods, with only a knife and tomahawk, would fatten where a wolf
would starve. They had a great deal of wild fruit some kinds of which they dried.
They found different kinds of edible acorns and gathered great quantities of
hickory and chinkapin nuts. Bartram says he saw over a hundred bushels of shell-bark
hickory nuts collected by one family of Creeks. These nuts they ate raw and
also pounded them into pieces and put them into boiling water and thus got the
oily part of the nut which they called hickory milk. This they used in cooking
hominy and corn cakes.
The name hickory and chinkapin are from the Indian tongues. Only a few of the
names for the crops we grow and the foods we eat are derived from the native
languages of North America, the most common being: maize, potato, tobacco, squash,
hominy, succotash, samp, pone, tomato and chocolate, the last two being from
the Mexican language.
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