Flax is the common name for an annual herb of the Linaceae family, especially members of the genus Linum, and for the fiber obtained from such plants. The stem varies from 60 to 120 cm in length and consists of fiber bundles lying between the outer bark and a woody core. The individual fibers, 10 to 40, are held together in the bundles by pectins. The bundles lie around the core and are attached to it and one another by pectins. Flax requires a temperate, moist climate and good soil to flourish. It is sown around the end of March, and the plant starts to bloom at the end of May. Because it is a 'heavy feeder', it cannot be grown on the same land year after year and so it is be rotated with other crops. It must be weeded often. There are two main types: the blue-flowered and the white-flowered flax. The latter produces coarser fibers and more seeds than the blue flax. The fibers, after processing, are spun and woven into linen cloth.
Harvesting
flax:
Most flax matures in 90 to 120 days and usually is ready in
August. There are three degrees in the
ripening of the flax grown to make linen: green, yellow
and brown.
The yellow has proved to be the most suitable for fiber production.
Flax that is pulled too early -green - produces very fine but weak
fibres. On the other hand , in overripe flax - brown - the stems are
strong but brittle but produce too high a proportion of undesirable
short fibers ('tow'). When the flax is yellow, the fibres are long
and supple, and therefore ideal for further processing. The mature
yellow stems were harvested by careful pulling from the soil by hand
('vlas trekken' = flax pulling) to avoid damaging the fibers in the
stem. The pulled flax was stacked in bundles ('kapelletjes' = little
chapels) in the field. The next steps in the processing described
below are those used for centuries before the industrial revolution,
early in the 19th century, introduced mechanization and destroyed the
home-based flax industry.
The stems were walked repeatedly or beaten with a
flail ('swingle') to remove the seed
bolls.
More commonly their top ends of a bundle of stems were pulled through
a 'ripple', a comb-like ('kam') tool consisting of a row of 20-30
vertical steel pins fixed in a piece of wood which looked like the
'heckling'
comb
shown
below.
This process was called 'rippling' ('repelen')
in Flemish). The seeds were then released from the bolls by walking
over them or beating with a flail.
The stems were then 'retted'
by the
action of molds and bacteria which removed gums and resins.
Retting
sometimes was done by simple exposure of the stems to the weather in
the fields for 2 to 8 weeks, the time required depending on the
weather. This process dissolved the pectins holding the bundles to
the central core of the flax stem and to one another. Care is needed
to stop the process before the pectins holding the individual fibers
in the bundles together were dissolved. It was important to keep the
bundles intact for later spinning. During this period the dew and
rains washed away the digested pectin, leaving the bundles
lying
within the stems. More commonly, retting was done by soaking the
stems in a nearby stream or river such as the Leie, near Kortrijk
and surrounding villages. Elsewhere the retting was often done by
soaking the flax, covered with mud, in water-filled pits for 1-2
weeks. The stems were then rinsed and dried in 'kapelletjes'.
Retting loosened the bast
(flexible fibrous bark) from the bundles, facilitating the next step,
'scutching'
by beating
with a stick a shown to the left or with the tool to the right . Both
crushed the inner woody core of the stems leaving the desired bundles
of long fibers intact. This produced about 60% linen flax (long
fibers -60 to 90 cm long) 33% tow (short fibers - 10 to 15 cm long)
and 'shiv', woody waste formerly used for fuel, nowadays to make chip
board.
The stems were then drawn through a
'heckling'
comb shown below to remove
remnants of the fibrous core and outer bark and aligned the bundles
of fibers ready for spinning.
Except the planting and weeding, all the above
labor-intensive steps began to be replaced in the early 1800s by
mechanized processes associated with the industrial revolution.
Harvesting machines replaced ''vlas trekken' (see above). Nowadays
water retting in streams is rarely used because of its cost and the
pollution it causes. It has largely been replaced by soaking the
harvested flax in tubs of warm water for about a week. Scutching by
hand was replaced by mechanical beaters called zwingeling machines;
hackling was mechanized and, of course, hand
spinning
and hand
weaving
were replaced by adaptations of the English-designed 'Spinning Jenny'
that was imported (actually smuggled into Belgium by Lieven Bauwens
in the early 1800s to speed the production of thread to feed the
looms.) But that's a different story . . .
Many
of the pictures were modified from "The
Linen House",
an excellent source
of information on flax and linen.
OR
Learn more about the flax industry